Easy Elegant Food and Wine

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What do eggs and Chenin Blanc have in common?  They both make us look good.  Keeping a few versatile things on hand makes people seem prepared.  You may have heard a good hostess always has some ice cream and pound cake in the freezer just in case. Not at the Tasting Pour kitchen, we have eggs and Chenin Blanc.

 

There are typically 100 pleats on a toque blanc – the chef’s hat.  The pleats supposedly represent the number of ways a trained chef can cook an egg.  Keeping eggs on hand, allows us to whip up breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner with no advanced planning.  Since eggs are instrumental in a number of desserts from ice cream to crème brûlée, they really are the most remarkable single ingredient you can keep on hand.  Simply throwing in leftover cheese, veggies, and herbs into an omelet, frittata, or even a scramble can make a great meal with many flavor options.  In the winter when greens are lean we like to combine bacon, kale, red onion and blue cheese.  Cilantro, black beans, and tomato or salsa give a Mexican twist. Springtime means asparagus, mushroom and prosciutto.  Eggs are never boring and can be accompanied by toast and jam, green salad, roasted potatoes, or soup depending on the time of day.  Here’s a hint to make your egg dishes even more compelling.  Remove from heat and then toss edible flowers on top to infuse flavors.  Try sage, arugula, or Thai basil flowers.

There is a joke at our house that when there is no plan for dinner, we will have a soufflé.  We always have eggs, cheese, and herbs.  Beyond that ingredients are improvised and the only reason people think soufflés are difficult is because they look so beautifully fancy.  Click here for a step by step guide to create a soufflé.

To complete the easy meal masquerading as fancy, you need a versatile wine.  This wine should have varied flavors, balanced acid, and a broad audience. We have always been impressed with the many forms of Chenin Blanc – dry, varying levels of sweetness, sparkling.  Of course there are other versatile grapes. Riesling comes to mind and while you CAN get sparkling versions, they are not widely available.  Chenin Blanc boasts a dazzling array of potential flavors depending on style and development - floral, chamomile, honey, vegetal, wet wool, quince, pineapple, tangerine, peach and apricot, lanolin, lemon, herbs, toast, and menthol.  Because Chenin Blanc has high acidity, the best bottles also have the potential to age.  It is said to be “simultaneously taut and luscious, austere and voluptuous.”  We find it to be both nuanced and accessible – a great wine for simple dishes that taste complex.

A sparkling Chenin Blanc might be one of the most versatile wines in your cabinet.  Pair it with your soufflé for brunch, lunch or dinner. It is even a great aperitif.  Even dry Chenin Blanc is lush enough to seem off dry.  Coupled with refreshing acidity, it is easy to pair with food and can be quite a crowd pleaser. 

The classic growing region for Chenin Blanc is the “garden of France,” the beautiful Loire Valley.  Like many French wines, you are unlikely to see the varietal name “Chenin Blanc” on the label.  Reference the chart below for label clues.  Chenin Blanc is also produced in dry, sweet, and sparkling styles in South Africa where the grape is called Steen, but more typically labeled Chenin Blanc for export.

Give it a try.  A table set with a chilled glass of Chenin Blanc and a soufflé says, “It took me a week to plan this meal”.  No one has to know that you really walked into your kitchen, hands on hips, and said, “Hmmm, what have I got for dinner?”  And if you are worried about your soufflé, serve a glass of that Chenin Blanc as an aperitif.  By the time dinner is served, no one will care if the soufflé fell.

This post is part of Tasty Traditions.



High West Distillery and Saloon

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For all of you whiskey lovers or for folks who like unique small batch booze, add High West Distillery and Saloon to your “must try” list.  What makes High West unusual?  You know what they say about location, location, location, well they are in Utah.  No, Utah is not the first place we think of when we say distillery, but High West lays claim to Utah’s first legal distillery since 1870.  And you can ski to it.  Yes, it is the only ski-up gastro distillery.  Located at the bottom of a ski run and next to a ski lift, you can add a whiskey and a small meal to your ski outing.  Tasting Pour might have some recommendations concerning whether you should imbibe before or after ascending into heights of thinning oxygen, but you are a grown up and we won’t tell your mama.

 

Even if a trip to Park City, Utah is not in the plan, High West Distillery and Saloon has some widely distributed cool concoctions that you can pick up at your liquor store or try at your favorite bar.  In Little Rock, we found an opportunity to taste at the beautiful Packet House Grill.  Here we met General Manager Chris Bryan, who relocated from Utah (another sign we should plan a trip?) and is a big fan of High West.  We decided to try two of High West’s most popular whiskeys – Double Rye and Rendezvous.  Double Rye, as you would guess, is a blend of two rye whiskeys – a 2 year old that is 95% rye and a 16 year old that is 53% rye and 37% corn.  We found the Double Rye to have a bright top note and a definite sweetness from the corn.  Flavors such as cinnamon, cloves and vanilla added complexity.  The alcohol was a bit fiery. Tasting Pour would definitely be interested in picking up a bottle for some cocktail experiments.

Kieran Walsh, High West’s Whiskey Apostle, explains “Double Rye is for the casual whiskey drinker looking for a quality whiskey suitable for drinking and mixing while Rendezvous is for the whiskey enthusiast.”  We agree.  Rendezvous has every bit of the slightly bitter, spicy bite you want from a rye whiskey.  It is unique in its class because of the high rye content.  To be labeled “straight rye whiskey” requires a minimum of 51% rye.  Rendezvous far exceeds this requirement.  It is a blend of a 6 year old whiskey that is 95% rye and a 16 year old whiskey that is 80% rye.  Because of extended aging, the alcohol is dangerously smooth.  The flavors are broad and complex, layering ripe banana and vanilla with the rye.  Rendezvous is definitely one to sip and savor. 

These are two very different renditions of rye whiskey. The example we were given is if you like English peas you will like Double Rye.  Sweeter, less complex, lighter flavors – makes sense.  For lima bean lovers, the earthier flavors of Rendezvous are the ticket.  We like both English peas and lima beans and both whiskeys.  (Don’t worry you do not have to eat your veggies to drink High West!)  We did try them both with food – Packet House Grill’s quail and savory waffles, a high end take on chicken and waffles- were a hit with both rye whiskeys, especially Rendezvous.  Okay, we admit we like lima beans a little more.

Look also for 36^th Vote Barreled Manhattan.  This is not your grocery story line cocktail premix.  This is Double Rye, Vermouth, and Angostura Bitters aged in a barrel.  It is kind of a nod to the late 1800’s when people did not mix cocktails at home but bought them from the in-house bars at hotels.  Hotel guests would often ask for the popular Manhattan to go.  To save time the bartenders would mix batches in advance.  They noticed a more complex, richer result when storing in barrel vs. bottle.  “But we can mix our own rye Manhattan at home,” we protested.  “Yes, but do you have a barrel?” retorted Kieran.  Um, well no.  Kieran goes on to explain that Vermouth changes the ph of the cocktail allowing an infusion of extracts from the wooden barrel that would not happen with the whiskey alone.  Three months in barrel makes a richer, smoother mouth feel.  He says his dad too was a skeptic but now asks for a bottle every time he is in town.  We wonder if this smooth cocktail in a bottle is a little dangerous.  At least stopping to mix the cocktail slows you down! This would be great for a dinner party – a ready to go quality cocktail that doesn’t draw you away from your guests.  And it comes with a good story . . . It is named 36^th Vote because Utah positioned itself to be the 36^th vote needed to end Prohibition.  Yes, Utah, who would have thought.

Visit High West Distillery and Saloon’s site for more of their interesting whiskeys, cocktails, and great history.  If anyone tries the very smoky and aptly named Campfire – the world’s only bourbon, rye, scotch blend – let us know what you think.

This article has been shared with Tasty Traditions.

Pour or Store? Part 2 of 2

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Say you are presented with a bottle of wine.  If you are like most people you may wonder – “Should I pour this now, or store it for later?”  If you decide to store it, the next question is always “How long?”  It is time to play detective and find clues to help determine if you should pour or store.   To make this judgment without tasting you will need to learn all you can about the wine’s history prior to release.  If you missed Part 1 of Pour or Store, we will give you a moment to catch up.  Ready?  Let’s start looking for clues.

What is the wine made of? (Varietal Clues)

We know how important acid is to storing a wine, so we can infer that high acid varietals will store better than lower acid varietals.   Chenin Blanc, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc from cool climates are known for high acid.  While not meant to develop into something better, they often remain “ready to drink” for a surprising number of years. Grapes like Viognier and Gewürztraminer have lower acidity and do not age well.  Nebbiolo, a red Italian grape, is known for intense tannins and acid and requires time to develop. 

What country and region is your wine from? (Origin Clues)

Varietals also present differently from different regions. A really buttery, oaky Chardonnay from a warm climate in California or Australia will probably not develop into something more pleasurable.  It hangs its hat on primary (apple, lemon) and secondary (butter, oak) flavors.  That is its style and the most you can hope is that it will not change.  But a Premier or Grand Cru Chardonnay from Chablis (cooler and less sunny) will need 10 and 15 years of bottle age respectively. 

                       

How “old” was your wine when you received it?

                         (History Clues)                    

Keep in mind that some aging can happen before wines are released. This aging occurs in wood or stainless steel and sometimes after bottling.  There can be tertiary flavors/aromas upon release.  These wines are ready to drink AND have aging potential.   Examples include Vintage Champagnes and some Classed Growth Bordeaux. The Rioja region of Spain will label some of their wines Crianza, Riserva, and Gran Riserva.  These label clues indicate a progressive amount of required wood and bottle aging prior to release.  One can open a newly released bottle of Gran Riserva and experience tertiary aromas and integration without the risk of holding the bottle.

Check the vintage.  Is it the current year?  This wine did not require aging before release and is intended to be consumed young and fresh.  It also means there will be another release next year, climate willing, so drink up.  Examples include rosé wines and Vinho Verde and Beaujolais Nouveau.  In fact Vinho Verde, which means “green wine” for “young wine” often, shows no vintage because you are supposed to drink it right away.

Where can you learn about your wine?

Winery websites often have valuable information about their winemaking techniques.  This can help set expectations about quality and tell you how much aging occurred before release.  Many wineries will also offer guidelines on how long to store their wines.  Additional sources include cellar tracker and wine searcher.

Caring for your wine

Even wine that you have deemed pourable not storable requires proper storage.  A short time in poor conditions can ruin your wine. We were at a restaurant and could not understand why our rosé wine wasn’t up to par.  Then we noticed the bottles were stored on a mirrored shelf, with a mirrored wall behind, above light bulbs, and across from a sunny window – in New Orleans!!!

For best results follow these guidelines:

1.      Cool, constant temperature.  (10- 15 C or 50-59 F)

2.      Store wine on its side to keep the cork wet.  This point is moot with screw cap and other non cork closures.

3.      Keep away from the light. 

4.      Keep away from vibrations.

5.      Don’t store wine in your kitchen.  Just don’t.

Applying our pour or store tips you will find that most wines are simply ready to pour.  For those storable bottles, do your homework, apply your new skills, and we hope you find future rewards.

 

Borrowed  from San Diego Wine Storage 



Pour or Store - Part 1 of 2

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So you find yourself the proud owner of a bottle of wine and want to know, “Do I pour it or store it?”  Several readers have asked Tasting Pour how to answer this question.  The answer is always “It depends…” 

While it sits in the bottle, properly stored wine can only:

1. Stay the same;
2. Get better – changing or developing into something more interesting; 
3. Get worse – evolving to a “tired” or “past its prime” state. 

 The vast majority of wines – especially “New World” wines - are released “ready to drink” and do not need further aging.  It is important to determine how long these wines will stay the same.  Wines do not stay the same forever and most will skip from “ready to drink” to “tired” without even a pit stop at “getting better”.  Given enough time, all wines, with very few exceptions will reach the “past its prime” state.

How do wines change (or develop) as they age?

            The most significant changes from proper aging can be found in tannic structure and flavor profile. Some characteristics of a wine (such as acid, alcohol, and sweetness) change very little.  Other components evolve in somewhat predictable ways.

Tannins become softer and less dominant.  Flavors/aromas move from predominantly primary and secondary to tertiary.  Primary flavors are from the grape itself - fruit, floral, black pepper, herbs, mineral etc.  Secondary flavors arise from the winemaking process - wood, toast, butter, baking spices, etc.  Tertiary flavors evolve with age - mushroom, cedar, tobacco, game, etc.  

            The key question in the Pour or Store debate is:  Will this wine benefit from these expected changes?  Ironically, the best way to determine this is to pour.

Taste test

            We will focus on four aspects:  acidity, tannins, flavor profile, and integration.  Acidity may be the most crucial aspect to the longevity of a wine.  Fortunately, you do not need a pH meter or litmus paper to identify acidity.  Acidity can be determined by how much the wine makes your mouth water.  Properly stored wines should keep their acidity allowing the wine to remain refreshing over time while the wine either stays the same or develops.  However, there is no way to overcome the absence of good acidity.  Keeping a wine without adequate acid will only compound your disappointment. 

            Tannins make your mouth feel dry on the tongue, roof of the mouth, and along the gum line.  Tannins can sometimes be overwhelming in youthful wines which are capable of long storage.  I have heard it described this way  . . . If the tannins make your tongue stick to the roof of your mouth like peanut butter, then that bottle needs time to develop.  Tannins, of course, play a larger role in red wines.

            Flavor profile offers valuable clues.  If more mature tertiary flavors dominate or if there is a balance of primary and tertiary flavors, that bottle is near its peak and has nowhere to go but downhill.  Even so, remember that high acidity can help it remain fresh, so there is not always a need to panic. 

 When evaluating the flavor profile, fruit is important to consider.  If the varietal or blend should be fruit dominant, yet you cannot smell or taste fruit, we say it is “tight”.  Swirl it in your glass or consider decanting.  If the wine does not “open up” revealing its fruit, but you detect a lot of tannins and acid, this wine likely needs to develop.

            If fruit, tannins, and acid blast your palate in almost separate waves, we say the wine is not well integrated.  If the individual aspects are strong, and the flavor profile has not shifted too far to tertiary flavors, this wine will likely improve over time and become more harmonious.

            Simple, fruity wines with very little tannin and lighter acid should be thought of as a youthful fling.  You know they won’t last, so go ahead and enjoy them now.  Next year there will be another.

            When considering a wine for aging you might ask yourself, “Do I like this wine and why?”  If you like it because it is fresh and fruity then ask “Does it have enough acid to keep it fresh and fruity?”  These wines will keep a few years but won’t improve.  If you don’t like it because it does not have enough fruit then ask, “Is the fruit hiding behind the tannins?”  If there is also lots of acid then maybe keep a bottle to try later and see if the fruit comes to the forefront.

            One of our wine friends makes this suggestion . . . If you think a wine will improve over time, buy a case.  Open one bottle a year to see how the wine develops.  If you have enough scratch, this could be a fun experiment.  I guess when you determine the wine is at its prime, you can open the rest of the bottles and have a party!

“But I only have one bottle!”

            Don’t despair.  While a little more risky, we can find clues about how a wine will develop without opening that one precious bottle.  We will share those clues next week, along with some tried and true ways to properly store your wine.